A washing machine shaking violently on the spin cycle almost always comes down to one of six things: an uneven load, shipping bolts left in, a washer that isn’t level, worn suspension parts, a bouncy floor, or worn drum bearings. The first three are free to fix and take a few minutes. To see how bad the shake really is, and whether your fix worked, use the washing machine vibration test. You put your phone on top of the washer during the spin, and it gives you a reading in 30 seconds.
Why washers shake on the spin cycle
During the spin, the drum turns fast. Most front-loaders spin at 1,000 to 1,400 RPM, which is about 17 to 23 turns per second. Top-loaders often spin at 600 to 900 RPM, or 10 to 15 turns per second.
Any weight that sits off to one side of the drum gets flung outward on every turn. That force grows with the square of the speed. Spin twice as fast and a lopsided towel pulls four times as hard. Springs and dampers hold the drum and soak up most of this, so the cabinet barely moves. When one of those parts wears out, or the load is badly off to one side, the whole machine starts to rock, bang or walk across the floor.
Many newer washers sense an unbalanced load. They stop, add water or tumble the load to spread it out, and try again. Some slow the spin or skip it. If your washer pauses a lot before it spins, that is often the reason.
Common causes of a washing machine shaking violently
Work through these in order. They go from the easiest and most likely to the hardest.
1. The load is uneven
This is the most common cause by far. A single heavy item, like a bath mat, a pair of jeans, a comforter or a pair of sneakers, collects on one side of the drum. Soaked towels bunch up the same way.
- Stop the cycle, open the door, and spread the load around the drum.
- Wash heavy items with two or three similar items so they balance each other.
- Use the bulky or bedding cycle for comforters. It spins slower.
- Don’t overload the drum. Clothes need room to spread out.
The clue: the shaking changes from load to load, and a load of mixed small items spins smoothly.
2. Shipping bolts are still in
Front-loaders leave the factory with shipping bolts in the back panel. They lock the drum so it doesn’t get damaged in the truck. If they stay in, the drum can’t float on its springs, and the washer shakes hard from the very first spin. Whirlpool’s guide to removing shipping bolts shows what they look like. Keep the bolts in case you move.
The clue: the washer is new or was just moved, and it shakes on every load, even small ones.
3. The washer isn’t level, or a foot is loose
Put a level on top of the washer, front to back and side to side. Then push down on opposite corners. If the washer rocks at all, one foot isn’t touching the floor.
- Screw the front feet in or out until the washer is level and doesn’t rock.
- Tighten the lock nut on each foot up against the cabinet. A loose lock nut lets the foot slowly turn during the spin.
- Some top-loaders have self-leveling back legs. Tip the washer forward a few inches and set it down to reset them.
The clue: the washer rocks when you push on a corner, or it has crept away from the wall.
4. Worn shock absorbers, dampers or springs
With the power off and the drum empty, push down hard on the drum (front-loader) or the tub (top-loader) and let go. It should move and settle quickly. If it bounces several times, or you hear a clunk, the dampers or suspension rods are likely worn. They wear out slowly, so the shake builds over months.
These parts are usually sold as a set and replaced in pairs. It is a doable job if you are handy, but it means unplugging the washer, shutting off the water and taking off a panel. If you are unsure, call a repair person.
The clue: the washer is several years old, the shake got worse slowly, and you hear the drum knock against the cabinet.
5. The floor is bouncy
A washer on a wood floor, especially upstairs, shakes more than one on concrete. The floor flexes and joins in. Move the washer closer to a wall, where the floor is stiffest, and make sure all four feet are firm. Anti-vibration pads help the feet grip. To see how much reaches the rest of the house, try the washer floor vibration test or the floor vibration test.
6. Worn drum bearings
Worn bearings make a loud rumble or roar during the spin, even with a small load. With the power off, you may feel the drum wobble or clunk when you lift its edge. This is a big repair. On an older washer, it is often worth pricing a new machine first.
How to find the cause with your phone
A test takes a few minutes and tells you whether the problem is the load or the machine.
- Run a rinse-and-spin cycle with the drum empty. Once it reaches full spin, place your phone flat on top of the washer, near the front. Tap Start and keep your hands off during the 2-second “Hold still” step.
- Let it measure for 30 seconds. Tap “Save image.”
- Now run a normal, mixed load and measure the same way, in the same spot, at full spin.
- Compare the two results.
Here is how to read them:
| What you see | Likely cause |
|---|---|
| Empty drum smooth, full load rough | Uneven or overloaded load |
| Empty drum rough too | Shipping bolts, leveling, feet, suspension or bearings |
| Reading jumps up and down during the run | Load shifting, or worn dampers letting the drum knock |
| Reading steady and high | Something constant: bolts, feet, floor or bearings |
Check the frequency too. If the Hz reading times 60 comes close to your washer’s spin speed in RPM, the shake comes from the spinning drum, which is what you’d expect. Most spin speeds are below 1,800 RPM (30 Hz), so a phone can usually read them. The RPM to Hz converter does the math.
The washer test uses a machine scale based on the ISO 10816-1 small-machine zones. That standard wasn’t written for washers, so treat the label as a rough guide:
| Label | RMS velocity | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| Smooth | under 0.71 mm/s | Nothing. |
| Normal | 0.71 to 1.8 mm/s | Fine for a spin cycle. Keep an eye on it. |
| Rough, check it | 1.8 to 4.5 mm/s | Check the load, the level and the feet. |
| Too much vibration | over 4.5 mm/s | Stop and find the cause before the next load. |
The most useful number is the change. Measure before and after each fix, in the same spot, on the same cycle.
When to call a repair person
Stop using the washer and call for service if:
- The drum bangs against the cabinet with a small, balanced load.
- The washer still walks across the floor after you level it.
- You hear grinding or a loud roar, smell burning, or see water leaking.
- An empty drum still reads “Too much vibration” after you checked the bolts, the feet and the level.
Always unplug the washer before you touch the feet or open a panel. Never sit or lean on a shaking washer to hold it down. You can get hurt, and it hides the real problem.
Quick checklist
- Spread out the load and wash heavy items in pairs.
- On a new washer, check for shipping bolts.
- Level the washer and lock the feet.
- Do the bounce test on the drum.
- Measure before and after each change with the washing machine vibration test.
A phone reading is a good guide, not a certified measurement. It won’t name a broken part, but it tells you whether things got better or worse, which is what you need as you work down the list.